A rich history of different cultures that date all the way back to the first human fossil ever discovered in Africa, in 1921, proves that archaic humans were present in Zambia at least 200 000 years ago. Followed by the Khoisan about 36 000 years ago, to European colonisation, four different kingdoms and many religions – Zambia has a plethora of landmarks, museums and history to share.

From ancient cave paintings to the hustle-and-bustle of modern Lusaka, the grandeur of Shiwa Ng’andu to the infamous slave tree – Zambia’s monuments and heritage sites are as diverse as its history.

Zambia is one of Africa’s most urbanised countries, with over 44% of the population living in its towns and cities. And as Zambia’s economy continues to grow (at one of the fastest rates in the developing world), it seems this trend will increase in years to come, with more and more poor rural dwellers moving to urban areas, many of which have already seen substantial development since the 1990s.

The capital Lusaka is at the core of this movement and has become one of Africa’s fastest growing cities. The steady increase of tourism throughout the country as a whole has brought further development and better tourist infrastructure to once small provincial towns like Livingstone and Chingola, as well as to commercial and industrial centres like Ndola and Kitwe.

With all this in mind, in many of Zambia’s towns and cities there is a sense of restlessness and perpetual motion, complimented by an increasingly cosmopolitan mix of people, cultures and commodities from all over the country and far beyond its borders too. To overlook Zambia’s urban centres is to overlook the people of Zambia.

CHINGOLA
Chingola is the most picturesque of the Copperbelt towns with a profusion of trees and flowers. The higher rainfall that this part of the country gets is very evident in the greenery throughout the suburbs. Chingola is home to the biggest open-cast mine in Africa.

Where to stay: There are three hotels with basic facilities but all are clean and comfortable, catering mainly for businessmen. Lima Hotel, Nchanga Hotel and Musunshya Hotel. (See listings for hotels)

Protea Hotels have just opened a prestigious new 40 room hotel in Chingola located in a residential area with a good restaurant and a lively bar. It has a swimming pool, internet cafe, shops and an ATM machine and all rooms are airconditioned. An excellent choice for wedding parties, banqueting and conference facilities. The Hotel is only 1 km from the Championship Golf Course, Nchanga and an easy drive to the other excellent Copperbelt Golf courses – Mufulira, Konkola and Chubuluma. Protea also has a Safari Lodge just outside Lusaka.

Sightseeing: It is possible to visit the open cast mine. One needs to get a permit from the mine office at the end of Fern Ave. If you’re a golfing enthusiast, it said that Nchanga Golf course in Chingola is one of the most beautiful and well kept courses in Africa. A must if you’re this far north is a visit to Chimfunshi Chimpanzee Sanctuary.

KITWE
Sixty four kilometres west of Ndola is Kitwe, the hub of the Copperbelt and the principle industrial and commercial centre of the area. The city owes its existence to the copper mining industry but a considerable number of secondary industries have been established. Planned on modern lines, Kitwe has a large shopping area with hotels, a cinema and theatre.

With the upsurge of copper prices in the 1950’s Kitwe developed from a small township to the second largest city in Zambia, obtaining city status in 1966. It then developed as an industrial and commercial area and later an important agricultural area. The good central position of the city in the Copperbelt area made it the most popular choice for industrial developers. Other industries include furniture manufacturing, batteries, clothing, asbestos and cement production, and consumer goods manufacturing. Kitwe also has three well equipped hospitals.

LIVINGSTONE
Named after the famous Victorian missionary explorer, Dr David Livingstone, who explored this area extensively, Livingstone Town was established in 1905.

As a major European settlement, being close to the Zambezi River crossing over to Southern Rhodesia, the town was made the capital of Northern Rhodesia in 1911. As the capital, it enjoyed excellent facilities far superior to anything elsewhere in the country, as can be seen from the surviving Edwardian buildings that line the city’s main road. Livingstone even had the distinction of having the country’s first newspaper. The capital was moved to Lusaka in 1935 and the bustling city has become a quiet town, but still retaining a special charm. A major event in 2011 was the installation of the town’s first set of traffic lights! The proximity to the Zambezi River and the spectacular Victoria Falls has led Livingstone to become a base for travelers from all over the world wanting to explore this Wonder of the World.

There are several Adventure Companies offering Riverboarding, White water rafting, Canoeing, Horse riding trails, Abseiling, as well as Boat cruises, Walks with lions, Elephant back safaris, Quad bikes riding, Kayaking and tours to the Victoria Falls, Mukuni Cultural Village and the places of interest in Livingstone.

LUSAKA – CAPITOL OF ZAMBIA
Lusaka has become something of a boom town of late. New buildings are going up everywhere and many chain stores and shopping malls are springing up all over the sprawling suburbs.

The road development isn’t quite keeping up so peak hour traffic is finally becoming like other cities, but it has an optimistic air of a town on the rise. For many, this is the perfect example of what economic liberalisation has done for the country. And viewed from the villages, Lusaka is the glittering capital which still persuades rural Zambians to migrate to the city in search of jobs and dreams. Well over 60% of its 2 million inhabitants are unemployed, but there are surprisingly few beggars. Although petty theft occurs, most people try to make an honest living selling their wares or services, always with a friendly smile.

The markets are a hive of activity as the thousands of stalls are set up, upgraded and cleared away every day. A myriad of motor spares dealers, restaurants, hairdressers, fishmongers, fruitsellers and rows and rows of “salaula” – stalls of discarded clothing from the West sold to Africa by the bale. The capital covers an area of over 70km2 and is one of the fastest-growing cities in central Africa. It’s population almost trebled in the immediate post-independence era and continues to grow daily. There has been no influx control and the city is bursting at the seams. Grossly inadequate municipal facilities are hard-pressed to cope with the ever-increasing demand. It is a sprawling, metropolis with many multi-storey buildings, high-walled suburbs and busy shanty towns. Development has brought together people of many nationalities, making it a bustling centre for economic, political and cultural activities. The city lies at the junction of the main highways to the north, east, south and west, and at an altitude of 1300 metres above sea level. There are air links to most of the major tourist destinations in Zambia from Lusaka International Airport.

NDOLA
An important commercial centre in Zambia, Ndola lies some 320 kilometers north of Lusaka. It is the gateway to the mineral producing region of the country. Like Lusaka, the development of Ndola has been rapid and extensive.

There are many manufacturing industries here, including a major copper refinery. Although copper is still Zambia’s largest foreign exchange earner and the mainstay of the national economy, the city of Ndola has established itself as a commercial and light industrial centre of considerable importance, as well as being the junction and distribution centre for the Copperbelt complex. The oil pipeline from Dar-es-Salaam in Tanzania ends its 1700 km journey at the Ndola refinery.

Modern factories, offices and shops line the Central Business District A big attraction in Ndola is the annual Zambia International Trade Fair in July. A number of newspapers and journals are printed in the city, two of which serve the country – the Times of Zambia and the Sunday Times.

SIAVONGA
Siavonga has become known as the ‘Riviera of Zambia’ as the town is spread out along the north bank of Lake Kariba and is host to holidaymakers, both local and international, all year round.

The ‘riviera’ image is enhanced by an affluent Zambian community that is developing as business people from out of town invest in holiday homes in the area. Tthe spectacular Dam Wall is nearby, which is also the Kariba border crossing into Zimbabwe. Only a two and a half hour drive on good roads from Zambia’s capital, Lusaka, it is both a popular weekend getaway as well as a conference destination for the Lusaka businiess community.

The Zambezi Valley is very hot in the summer months (October to March) but luckily cooled by the summer rains. IN winter it is warm – to cool and dry (April to September).

THE COPPERBELT
Early European prospectors were shocked at the extent of tribal diggings found on the Copperbelt and the Katanga pedicle. Even before the Lunda and Mwata Kazembe Empires of last century, copper was in circulation in the form of ingots or crosses. Used as currency in central African trade it was somewhat eclipsed in value with the increase in slave trade. In keeping with the attitudes of the time, many prospectors refused to believe that the local tribes people were in fact responsible for the digging.

The early European discoveries by prospectors like William Collier (reputed to have made his discovery on the site where he had shot a roan antelope) in 1902, had to await economic viability before any serious mining attempts were undertaken. It was only in the 1920s that a technical breakthrough was achieved that made the mining of the then Northern Rhodesia’s ‘red gold’ highly profitable. And the fortunes of the country were irrevocably changed.

The claims that made up the Copperbelt were divided between two conglomerates – the Anglo American Corporation of South Africa and the U.K. Selection Trust. (Later the Roan Selection Trust – RST) An initial boom in the industry was affected by the Great Depression of the 1930s. International gearing up for the hostilities that resulted in World War 2 created the next boom which lasted until the early seventies. This broad outline does not even begin to illustrate the enormous impact that copper has had on the country which is Zambia today.

It was copper that motivated infrastructural development in a country low on the priority list in the Colonial repertoire. It was copper that shaped colonial policies towards a federation with the then Southern Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) and Nyasaland (Malawi). It was copper that created the social realities that fomented trade unions and the birth of Zambian Nationalism. Zambia was born with a ‘copper spoon in its mouth’. A newly independent Zambia based political and socio-economic policies and strategies on the fortunes of copper.

With the collapse of copper prices, Zambia has become a nation foundering, struggling to find a replacement for foreign exchange earnings. Copper, once the country’s saving grace, has become its albatross.

Blessed with three major rivers, several substantial tributaries, and many smaller rivers, as well as vast natural lakes and the enormous Kariba dam, Zambia is one of the most water rich countries in Africa. The source of the Zambezi is in northwest Zambia and runs through the Barotse Floodplains until it forms the border with Zimbabwe. After providing power from Kariba Dam, it is joined by the Kafue River and later the Luangwa before heading out to the Indian Ocean. The Kafue and Luangwa Rivers are the life blood of the Kafue and Luangwa National Parks, teeming with hippos, crocodiles, waterbirds and plains game coming to drink. Many other rivers traverse the country with an abundance of delightful waterfalls.

THE KAFUE RIVER
The Kafue River plays a large role in Zambia’s eco- system. It is a major tributary to the Zambezi River and is the largest and longest river lying entirely within Zambia. Other tributaries include the Lufupa and Lunga rivers in the north, the Musa and the Luansanza in the centre and the Nanzhila in the south. Its course changes between slow flowing reaches to fast swift channels and mighty rapids. The streams which feed the river often have sandy banks which are perfect nesting sites for bee-eaters while the sandy shores are often occupied by hippos, crocodiles, otters and water monitors. Both the Musa River and the Kafue River flow into Lake Itezhi- Tezhi in an area that covers 370 square kilometres of serene water. The area is great for wildlife enthusiasts, fisherman and boating- fans.

THE LUANGWA RIVER
The Luangwa Valley is one of Africa’s prime wildlife sanctuaries, with concentrations and varieties of game and birdlife that have made it world famous. This is the landscape of the ‘Real Africa’, with herds of antelope sheltering under thorn trees, or roaming the plains, predators skulking in the shadows and primordial drama in every vale.

The ‘Valley’ lies at the tail end of the Great Rift Valley, that continental fault which runs from the Red Sea down the length of East Africa. This accounts for the spectacular escarpment scenery in East Africa as well as the African Lakes.

As the Rift reaches Zambia, it divides; one arm to the east encompasses Lake Malawi and the western arm becomes the Luangwa Valley, which stretches some seven hundred kilometres at an average width of about one hundred kilometres.

In the west, the Muchinga Mountain range forms the limit of both the Valley and the parks. In the east is a similar, though less well defined escarpment. The Valley floor is about a thousand meters lower than the surrounding plateau.

Down the centre of the valley flows the Luangwa River, fed by dozens of sand rivers that come down during the rainy season. The Luangwa carves a tortuous course along the floor and when in flood rapidly erodes the outer bends, depositing silt within the loops. Eventually the river cuts a new course, leaving the old course to silt up, forming ‘ox bow’ lagoons. These lagoons are very important to the ecology of the riverine zone and account for the high carrying capacity of the area.

The countryside is spectacular in its rugged beauty, the vegetation thick and, near the Luangwa River and its many tributaries, a lush riverine forest occurs that is green all year round. Flanking the rivers western banks are the North and South Luangwa National Parks separated by the 30km Munyamadzi corridor. To the east, between the two main parks is another small and as yet undeveloped Park called Luambe. Further east on the rocky uplands beyond the flood plain is the Lukusuzi National Park, also undeveloped but plans are in the pipeline.

THE ZAMBEZI RIVER
The Zambezi is the fourth-longest river in Africa, the longest east-flowing river in Africa and the largest flowing into the Indian Ocean from Africa.

For about 500 kilometres it serves as the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe thundering over the Victoria Falls and through the narrow, steadily deepening Batoka Gorge, providing a fantastic playground for white-water rafting, kayaking, river boarding and jet boating.

Its unique value is that it is less developed than other rivers regarding human settlement and many areas along its banks have even been granted protected status. The Lower Zambezi National Park flanks the river on the Zambian side and Mana Pools National Park on the Zimbabwean side. This whole area of the Zambezi supports one of Africa’s most important wilderness areas as it provides sustenance to a diverse array of game, birdlife and fish species.

Hippo, Nile crocodiles and monitor lizards, are commonly found along many of the calm stretches of the river. Species of bird, like heron, pelican, egret and African fish eagle are found in large numbers here. The riverine woodlands then support many large animals, such as buffalo, zebra, giraffe, elephant.

The Zambezi also supports several hundred species of fish, some of which are endemic to the river. Important species include cichlids which are fished heavily for food, as well as catfish, tigerfish, yellowfish and other large species. The bull shark is sometimes known as the Zambezi shark after the river but is found around the world.

After having provided power, food and transport for many people, and a home for untold numbers of wildlife ¬– the river ends its journey through Mozambique and out towards the Indian Ocean.

The Zambezi’s most noted feature is Victoria Falls, but there is also so much more. Other notable falls include the Chavuma Falls at the border between Zambia and Angola, and Ngonye Falls, near Sioma in Western Zambia. There are two primary sources of hydroelectric power on the river, the Kariba Dam, which provides power to Zambia and Zimbabwe, and the Cahora Bassa Dam in Mozambique, which provides power to Mozambique and South Africa. There is also a smaller power station at Victoria Falls.

Despite being landlocked, there can be few places in the world as blessed as Zambia when it comes to water resources. And the nation’s vast and beautiful lakes are as breath-taking as the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls. Lake Tanganyika is the longest lake in the world, while Lake Kariba is Africa’s largest man-made dam and rapidly becoming Zambia’s very own French Riviera. For the more intrepid traveller, the tropical and wild Lake Mweru offers a fascinating glimpse of village lif that lines the shores of this vast lake in th far north…overall, they are well worth a visit.

LAKE BANGWEULU
When one looks out over Lake Bangweulu, the grey blue waters disappear into the horizon, blending in completely with the colour of the sky. It is difficult to tell just where the horizon is. ‘Bangweulu’ means ‘The Place Where the Water Meets the Sky.’

The Lake is exploited more as a fish source than for its tourist potential. This is unfortunate, as it’s beauty is breathtaking. There are rumours of developing a tourist resort and having a luxury cruise boat for hire. But for the moment this is a an interesting stopover for the intrepid vehicle traveller or backpacker.

The main catches in the Lake are Cychlids (bream, tigerfish, yellow belly) and catfish. About 57 000 metric tons of fish are harvested from the Lake each year. Although fish stocks are not in danger, catches are declining and the favoured species are becoming thinner.

The fisheries of the Bangweulu are one of the largest in Zambia. This has lead to some of the highest population densities around the Lake where commercial fishermen have settled. Nevertheless the fishing industry is not economically well developed and inadequate controls and marketing facilities threaten both sustainability and profitability of the industry as a whole. Many of the fishermen trade their catches purely on a barter system for essential commodities.

Samfya is the largest town on the Lake, developed in the mid 1900s as a fishing village. You can get basic supplies as well as fresh fish. There is a post office, clinic and adequate fuel supplies.

LAKE KARIBA
Lake Kariba is Zambia’s undiscovered Riveira! It offers spectacular views, stunning sunsets, great fishing, boating opportunities, water sports or wonderful relaxing holidays or weekends just soaking up the sunshine.

The weather here is mostly sunny and fine. It can get quite hot in mid summer, but even mid winter days are warm and the nights are balmy.

This is Africa’s largest man made dam, 226km long and in places up to 40 km wide. It provides considerable electric power to both Zambia and Zimbabwe and supports a thriving commercial fishing industry. The sheer size of it makes one forget it’s a dam and in certain places it almost feels like an ocean!

A houseboat holiday is a great way to spend a few days under the sun, and the best time to plan it is over a full moon. The twilight atmosphere between sunset and full moon rise on this lake is quite magical.

Accommodation ranges from well established lodges on the banks with spectacular views to self catering chalets and campsites.

LAKE MWERU
This truly beautiful lake is located on the far north-west border of Zambia and is shared more or less equally with Zaire/DRC. The Luapula River flows in from the south having formed the official border between northern Zambia and Zaire. It also drains out from the lake in the north. The Kalungwishi river flows in from the east. Both river mouths form important deltas that serve as fish breeding grounds.

Not so long ago there were just a few villages dotted around the lake, but as the tar road arrived in Nchelenge in 1987, so the population increased as people began to make a living from the wealth of the Lake. The area, once surrounded by wildlife became peri-urban and the animals that weren’t poached drifted off to quieter areas. Now there are thousands of people living on the shores of this massive expanse of water which provides both food and a means of living.

Lake Mweru, although off the beaten track, is worth a visit. The lake has spawned a dynamic population, rich in culture, fervent in trade and colourful in nature. The area is almost a microcosm of what Tropical Africa could be if left to its own devices.

Tourist facilities, however are limited to a few ‘guesthouses’ of varying standards. Water temperatures range from 21o C to 29o C. While air temperatures range from 27.5o C to 35o C. The lake is chemically very fertile and contributes substantially to the fishing industry in Zambia.

Known to only a handful of visitors, the lake lies on the edge of Mweru Wantipa National Park. Though the thriving crocodile and elephant populations once found within the National Park have been almost entirely wiped out by poaching, the park remains a good place for viewing various waterbirds and a good spot for camping. There are also a number of scenic waterfalls along the Luapula River that feeds the lake, and the countless small villages you pass by help to further enliven the journey.

The road south from the lake is mostly good tar road all the way back to Ndola, beside the odd pothole, whilst the gravel road heading north-east towards Lake Tanganyika is also fairly comfortable.

LAKE TANGANYIKA
This vast inland sea was first made known to the European world in the mid 1800’s by the English explorers Richard Burton and John Speke. They pursued it as the source of the Nile, arriving at its shores in February of 1858, only to discover that the Ruzizi River in the north, which they thought to be the Nile, flowed into and not out of the lake. (Their incredible journey is documented in the movie ‘Mountains of the Moon’.)

Tanganyika’s waters lap Tanzania, Burundi, Congo DR and Zambia. It is the longest fresh water lake in the world and the second deepest after lake Baikal in Russia. The immense depth is because it lies in the Great Rift Valley, which also has created its steep shoreline. It reaches a depth of 1433 metres (4 700 feet), which is an astounding 642m below sea level.

Although Zambia can only lay claim to 7% of its surface area, it stretches north to south a distance of 677 kilometres (420 miles) and averages about fifty kilometers wide (31 miles). The clear waters host more than 350 different species of fish and is well known for aquarium fish exports and excellent angling.

The fertile circulating surface water, although not tidal, provides abundant plankton for its inhabitants which in turn provides much needed protein for both the local and export markets. The stiff winds that blow off the surrounding mountains aid the continual movement which inhibits the spread of bilharzia, the parasitic disease carried by shallow water snails.

A LANDLOCKED SEA
It is essentially a landlocked sea but in years of heavy rain the lake overflows into the Lukuga River which in turn feeds Congo DR’s Lualaba River

Despite the ferocious surface storms that occur, driving waves up to six meters high (20 foot), no mixing of the lower relict waters occur. The bottom 1 200 meters of the lake remain ‘dead’ – either too high in hydrogen sulphide or too low in oxygen to support life. This ‘fossil water’ may be as old as 20 million years. By contrast, the oceans, because of currents and upwellings have life forms even as low as 11000 meters (36 080 feet).

Lake Tanganyika has a remarkably uniform temperature. The lower regions are only a mere 3° C colder than the surface. The reason for this strange phenomenon has yet to be discovered.

TROPICAL FISH
Lake Tanganyika boasts over 350 species of fish of which most are endemic. Like Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika is extremely old, and the combination of its age and ecological isolation has led to the evolution of unique fish populations. Since new species are being discovered continually in these remarkable lakes, it is difficult to determine which has the highest diversity, but they at least share the distinction of being the top two lakes in the world in terms of biodiversity, whilst Lake Tanganyika has the highest proportion of endemicity, concentrated mainly in the Zambian waters of the lake.

The Lake Tanganyika Biodiversity Project has been set up to ensure that its biological diversity is maintained. The aim of the project is to produce an effective and sustainable system for managing and conserving the biodiversity of Lake Tanganyika. As Lake Tanganyika is a border for four countries Zambia, Burundi, Democratic Republic of Congo- the success of the project will depend on how well these countries work together. The project which began in 1995 comes to an end in the year 2000 and is funded by the Global Environmental Facility through United Nations Development Programme (UNDP).

Species of particular note include the Giant Nile Perch (Lates angustifrons) and Small Nile Perch (Luciolates stappersii) which are important commercial and sports fishing (that is angling) species, Goliath Tiger (Hydrocynus goliath) and the English Fish or Lake Tanganyika yellow-belly (Boulengerochromis microlepis) which are important angling species (the latter being especially prized for its good eating), the Kapenta (Limnothrissa miodon) which is an important source of fish-protein in Zambia, the rare Bichir (Polypterus congicus), and a great variety of endemic Cichlids.

About 30% of Zambia’s 752 614 square kilometers is reserved for wildlife. There are 20 national parks and 34 game management areas in the country. South Luangwa, Kafue and Lower Zambezi rank among the finest game parks in the world.

Luambe, and Lukusuzi Liuwa Plain, West Lunga, Sioma Ngwezi, and Nyika Plateau have substantial wildlife but are still undeveloped. Mosi-oa-Tunya, near Victoria Falls, is regarded as a Zoological park as it has a well managed population of antelope, elephants, giraffe and rhino, but does not have any predators.

Isangano, Lavushi Manda, Lusenga Plain, and Mweru Wantipa have never had management or facilities and have little wildlife but are still worth a visit by intrepid explorers and birdlovers. The newest park to be proclaimed is Lusaka National Park, just outside the capital, which opened to the public in June 2015.

In approximate order of importance in terms of wildlife resources, the 9 main functioning parks, all with access and accommodation are:

POPULAR PARKS

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK
Found in the centre of western Zambia, Kafue National Park is the oldest and largest of Zambia’s national parks. It covers a massive 22,400 km2. First established as a National Park in the 1950’s by the legendary Norman Carr, Kafue is one of the largest national parks in the whole of Africa. Despite its size and prominent location only two hours drive from Livingstone, it remains little-known and largely unexplored with vast tracts of its virgin bush still untouched. Thanks to its size and variety of habitat types the Kafue holds a fantastic diversity of wildlife.

 

KASANKA NATIONAL PARK
This peaceful sanctuary, situated on the south western edge of the Lake Bangweulu basin, is one of Zambia’s smallest national parks. It’s 450 km2 however, are so well endowed with rivers, lakes, wetlands, forests, lagoons, meadows and dambos that it supports a uniquely wide range of animals and abundant birds and fish. Do not expect to see large herds of animals round every corner, but it is surely one of the most picturesque parks in Zambia with superb birdlife.

 

LOCHINVAR NATIONAL PARK
Lochinvar, although not abundant in the larger mammals, is nonetheless a park of exceptional beauty and outstanding birding opportunities with over 420 recorded species in its 428 square kilometers. The Park is situated on the southern edge of the Kafue Flats, a wide floodplain of the Kafue River between Itezhi tezhi dam in the west and Kafue Gorge in the east. The area extends for 33kms from the Kafue River in the north to low wooded hills in the south. It includes the large, shallow Chunga Lagoon which fluctuates considerably in size with variations in river levels. The varying vegetation makes it an interesting park to visit with floodplains, woodlands and termitaria. It is particularly well known for the large herds of Kafue lechwe, unique to the Kafue flats. Other antelope are the blue wildebeest, kudu, oribi and buffalo. Waterbirds are especially abundant.

 

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK
This Park is still relatively undeveloped, it’s beauty lying in it’s wilderness state. The diversity of animals is not as wide as the other big parks, but the opportunities to get close to game wandering in and out of the Zambezi channels are spectacular. The Park lies opposite the famous Mana Pools Reserve in Zimbabwe, so the whole area on both sides of the Zambezi River is a massive wildlife sanctuary. The River’s edge is overhung with a thick riverine fringe, including ebony and fig trees. Further inland is a floodplain fringed with mopane forest and interspersed with winterthorn trees and huge acacias. The hills which form the backdrop to the Park are covered in broadleaf woodland.

 

LIUWA PLAIN
This remote park in the far west is pristine wilderness, which, to the ardent bush-lover, is its biggest attraction, and the rewards are great indeed. The game is spread out across the plains and takes some driving around to find, but to come upon a vast herd of blue wildebeest, a prowling wild dog, or a pride of dozing lions in this forgotten piece of Africa is especially fitting because of its completely natural and uncommercialised state.

 

MOSI OA TUNYA NATIONAL PARK
Bordered between Livingstone town, farm land and the Zambezi River, lies the wildlife area of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park – Zambia’s smallest National Park. This small reserve was established in 1972 with the idea of having representative wildlife species from Zambia. The park extends from the Batoka Gorge and continues for about 12km along the Zambezi River, above Victoria Falls. Livingstone itself borders on several ancient wildlife migration routes and river crossing points, some of which are still frequented by elephants. A few of these fall within the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, where wildlife can be found throughout the year, but elephants especially, during the drier months.

 

NORTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK
This remote tract of land, covering 4636 square kilometres, offers one of the finest wilderness experiences in Zambia, if not Africa itself. It is not open to the public and there are no permanent lodges there. Access is with one of the few safari operators granted permission to conduct walking safaris. The beauty of visiting this Park is the truly remarkable opportunities to experience Africa as it was. It is wild and untouched and you are simply an unobtrusive witness to its natural beauty and drama. Although declared a wilderness area, the North Park, was not open to anyone other than Game Department rangers for more than thirty years. In 1984, Major John Harvey and his wife Lorna sought permission to conduct walking safaris in the area and for many years were the only operators in this remote wilderness.

 

NSUMBU NATIONAL PARK
Lying on the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika in the Northern most tip of Zambia, Nsumbu National Park covers an area of just over 2000 square kilometers. It includes 100kms of some of the most pristine shores of this vast Lake. Its beauty ranges from sandy beaches, vertical cliffs, rocky coves and natural bays to the rugged hills and deep valleys of the interior. The Lufubu River winds its way through the Park and pours into Lake Tanganyika. The western boundary of Nsumbu National Park, or Sumbu as it is called locally, is buffered by Tondwa Game Management Area, an IUCN Category VIII Multiple Use Management Area of 54,000 ha. The much larger Kaputa Game Management Area (360,000 ha) is also contiguous with the National Park to the north-west and south-west, and therefore the National Park completely surrounds Tondwa. Nsumbu National Park and the two Game Management Areas thus form important parts of a network of Protected Areas in Zambia.

 

SIOMA NGWEZI NATIONAL PARK
Sioma Ngwezi National Park is mainly covered by Kalahari woodland. It is the third largest Park in Zambia covering a total area of more than 5000 km2. The Park has been heavily poached, but the situation is improving and wildlife is recovering. As an example elephants are returning to the Park, seen at the southeast border where elephants have re-established an old migration route, now very visible with several tracks in a corridor extending over more than one kilometer. In the Park most wild game associated with the African bush may be encountered although up to now in fairly low numbers. According to wildlife scouts from the Zambian Wildlife Authority (ZAWA) the Park holds a huge variety of game species such as elephant, lion, leopard, hyena, cheetah, wild dog, giraffe, eland, sable, roan, tsessebe, zebra, impala, kudu, duiker, buffalo, hippo, crocodile and sitatunga as well as a great number of birds.

 

SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK
Experts have dubbed South Luangwa to be one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, and not without reason. The concentration of animals around the Luangwa River, and its oxbow lagoons, is among the most intense in Africa. The Luangwa River is the most intact major river system in Africa and is the life-blood of this 9059 km2 Park. The Park hosts a wide variety of wildlife, birds and vegetation. The now famous ‘walking safari’ originated in this Park and is still one of the finest ways to experience Africa’s pristine wilderness first-hand. The changing seasons add to the Park’s richness, ranging from; dry, bare bushveld in the winter, to a lush, green wonderland in the summer months. There are 60 different animal species and over 400 different bird species in South Luangwa National Park. The only notable exception is the rhino, sadly poached to extinction.

SMALLER PARKS

BLUE LAGOON NATIONAL PARK
This Park is an undiscovered gem. The vast plains are spectacular in the dry season and transform completely from a dry grass flatland to a watery wonderland in the wet season, as the flats fill with water and the migratory birds arrive from far and wide. Until recently, this park was not open to the public as it fell under the preserve of the Defence Ministry. It was established more than 40 years ago by the Critchleys, a retired colonel from the British Army and his wife Erica – an environmentally oriented farming family who then sold it to the National Parks Department. Their farmhouse still exists which is now the Park reception. A little further on are two old chalets and two new chalets available for accommodation.

 

ISANGANO NATIONAL PARK
Situated in the Northern province of Zambia – the Isangano National Park is a small park close to the Bangweulu swamps. The park offers a different kind of appeal to many of Zambia’s other parks. It’s composed of mainly low-lying floodplains and flat well-watered grassland. The western side forms part of the Bangweulu wetlands which comes along with seasonal flooding and a profusion of birdlife. The area was declared a national park and protected reserve in 1972, but unfortunately, the park went into decline many years ago due to the consequences of a lack of funds, infrastructure, support and management – resulting in little wildlife and infrastructure in the park. However, since July 2007, the Zambian government started to take steps to preserve the wetlands and develop a viable community-friendly wildlife reserve. The opportunity exists to conserve and resuscitate park back to its former status as a fully-fledged National Park.

 

LAVUSHI MANDA NATIONAL PARK
Lavushi Manda is a picturesque park with rolling hills, rich riparian forest and striking rocky outcrops. Though the park is fairly large at 1,500km2, poaching over the last few decades has grossly reduced the number of animals found within the park’s boundaries and tourist infrastructure and roads are limited at best. However, a new development project that began in 2011 in affiliation with the Kasanka Trust looks to up the anti-poaching drive and improve roads, so it would be worth monitoring the park’s progress in the months and years to come.

 

LUAMBE NATIONAL PARK
At just 254 km², Luambe is one of Zambia’s smallest national parks. Situated on the eastern bank of the Luangwa it lies in the heart of the Luangwa valley between Lukusuzi, North and South Luangwa national parks. The park was declared in 1938 and is therefore one of the oldest conservation areas in Zambia. The wildlife found in Luambe is similar to that of its larger neighbouring parks and includes all the typical large herbivores, carnivores as well as some less well-known species. However, the animals of Luambe are generally present at lower densities than in the bigger parks with the advantage that Luambe is less crowded than its more famous neighbours.

 

LUKUSUZI NATIONAL PARK
Located on the eastern escarpment of the Luangwa Valley, between the North and South Luangwa Parks. To date this park has had no development or even management and the status of game is uncertain. There are apparently plans in the pipeline for its privatisation. Check with the tourist board for any new developments. For the curious 4×4 adventurer, it can be approached from the Chipata / Lundazi road, where a poor dirt track to the west traverses the park and connects up with the South Park border road. Not advisable in the wet season. Game scouts do man the gate and may be able to give advice on the condition of the road.

 

LUSAKA NATIONAL PARK
Lusaka National Park is located roughly 30 kilometres from Zambia’s capital city and opened to the public in June 2015, making it Zambia’s newest and most accessible park. This new and exciting national park is the 20th National Park to be established in Zambia, and only the second national park to be established in a city environment, the first one is the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park in Livingstone.

 

LUSENGA PLAINS NATIONAL PARK
Lusenga Plains National Park is in Luapula province in the North of Zambia. This park has not been operational for many years but it is now being restocked. Impala and zebra have been released , and soon wildebeest . Sabi Sands in SA is working on a project to relocate between 300 and 500 elephant from Sabi to Lusenga Plains and Sumbu NP in May 2009. New network roads are being graded, and funding is being sought for more scouts, firearms, vehicles for anti poaching, bicycles and motorbikes for scouts and possibly a light aircraft for surveys. Lusenga plains is being managed as a trust and is now accessible by road with signposts from Kawambwa.

 

MWERU WANTIPA NATIONAL PARK
The swampland surrounding Lake Mweru Wantipa in the far northern part of the country is much the same as the swamps of the Bangweulu in its profusion of waterbirds during the rainy season. The lake is surrounded by local fishing villages. It is possible to ask them to take you through the swamps in a dugout for a negotiable fee. Mweru Wantipa National Park, adjacent to the lake, used to harbour vast herds of elephant but poaching however has depleted most of the wildlife although there are still some small herds of buffalo. There are no tourist facilities but it is possible to camp along the lakeshore.

 

NYIKA NATIONAL PARK
Nyika Plateau is a beautiful, montane, highland area, lying on the Malawian border, at the eastern-most tip of Zambia. The park is actually an extension of the National Park on the Malawian side, which incorporates the part of the plateau that’s crosses the border. Separated into two parts; the Malawian side, and the Zambian side – you can’t go between the two sections without exiting the park and crossing the border before re-entering. Therefore, it is advisable that you contact the Malawian side of the park for their accommodation and rates and entry fees.

 

WEST LUNGA NATIONAL PARK
West Lunga National Park is one of Zambia’s less visited Parks. It was proclaimed in the 1940s to protect the population of Yellow-backed Duiker, but it has had little official interest over the years and has mainly been used for hunting and fishing by the local communities. Recently the West Lunga Development Trust was set up to help conserve this pristine and relatively sparsely populated area of Zambia. Local communities have been mobilized into Village Action Groups and Community Resource Boards are being set up to sustainably manage the natural resources. A game counting programme has been started and with more controls West Lunga can expect to see a rise in wildlife and visitor numbers in the future.

ZAMBIA’S SPECTACUALR WATERFALLS
Zambia is one of the most water-rich countries in Africa and her many rivers cascade into fabulous displays of falling water as they wind over the undulating landscape. The most spectacular is of course the not-to-be-missed Victoria Falls, but there are 17 other beautiful falls dotted around the country. Waterfall Tours are becoming a popular trip providing access to these out of the way delights as well as opportunities to see rural village life in Zambia.

 

NORTHERN WATERFALLS
The northern provinces of Zambia are very remote and uncommercialised. A two or three-week self-drive circuit from Lusaka is the only practical way to explore these off the beaten track areas of the country. The northern waterfalls are like finding the treasure chest from a secret map. Many of them have no tarred roads leading to them so it is quite an adventure locating them. The local villagers are always helpful and will tell you what they know about the traditional lore behind each waterfall, all of which are viewed as sacred places. Several operators offer tours around these areas and include visits to local villages to get a feel of authentic rural life in the beautiful unspoiled Zambian countryside.

MAJOR WATERFALLS

THE KALAMBO FALLS
The impressive Kalambo Falls can be found in the Northern Province, 33 kilometers from Mbala on the Kalambo River, which forms the border between Zambia and Tanzania. This spectacular jet of water falls in a single uninterrupted stream 221 meters down into the gorge below and then on into Lake Tanganyika. They are the second highest falls in Africa and the twelfth highest in the world. The rare Maribou stork nests in the gorge below the falls.

 

THE KUNDALILA FALLS
East of the Great North Road near Kanona in Central Province, in an area of spectacular scenic beauty, the Kaombe River falls 70 meters, breaking into thin veils and nourishing a natural botanical garden that surrounds the Falls. Visitors may swim in the deep natural pool at the foot of the falls and there is a camping site nearby.

 

THE LUMANGWE FALLS
Near the Chipembe Pontoon in the Northern Province, an astounding drop in the middle of nowhere creates what looks like a smaller version of Victoria Falls. 35m high and 100m across, the falls nourish a small rain forest on the Kalungwishi River. They are quite magnificent and well worth the 9km detour off the main road from Kawambwa to Mporokoso.

 

THE NGONYE FALLS
Also known as Sioma Falls because these Falls are near the village of Sioma. These beautiful Falls mark the transition point of the Zambezi Rivers’ flow from Kalahari sand floodplain to basalt dyke – the latter eventually contributing to the magnificent gorges of the Victoria Falls. The horseshoe-shaped Ngonye Falls are mostly impressive because of the sheer volume of water that cascades over the staggered, twenty meter drop. An interesting aspect is that the river flows underneath the rock on either side of the falls. It is quite remarkable to stand upon them, feeling and hearing the underground flow.

 

THE VICTORIA FALLS
Victoria Falls presents a spectacular sight of awe-inspiring beauty and grandeur on the Zambezi River, forming the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. It was described by the Kololo tribe living in the area in the 1800s as ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ – ‘The Smoke that Thunders’. In more modern terms Victoria Falls is known as the greatest curtain of falling water in the world. Columns of spray can be seen from miles away as, at the height of the rainy season, more than five hundred million cubic meters of water per minute plummet over the edge, over a width of nearly two kilometres, into a gorge over one hundred meters below.

SMALLER WATERFALLS

CHIPEMBE FALLS
Chipepe Falls, like Lumangwe, is on the Kalungwishi River. Chimpepe means something overhanging or sticking out. These falls are home to tasty bream fish for the locals.

 

CHIPOMA FALLS
In the Chinsali district in Northern Province, reached by turning west of the Great North rd about 24kms south of the the Chinsali turn-off at Two Leopards. The Chimanabwe River flows through an attractive series of rapids and cascades averaging about five meters each but the total drop over a distance of 500m is forty meters. The Chipoma Falls in January are at their maximum height. Their name in Bemba conveys the reverberating rush of falling water because you can hear the sound of the falls long before they are in sight.

 

CHISIMBA FALLS
Fed by the Luombe River, Chishimba Falls are actually a combination of three successive falls, incorporating Mutumena Falls and Kaela Rapids as well as Chishimba itself. The spot is situated about 33 kms from the town of Kasama, in the Northern Province. The impressive main part of the falls is around 20 metres high.

 

KABWELUMA FALLS
Five kms down the Kalungwishi river from the Lumangwe Falls (above) you’ll find this group of three powerful cascades, each spilling into the next. The Falls are a revered shrine for the local people. Many frogs are seen here which locals say they are the earthly forms of snake spirits. The Spirits do not allow the building of houses or any frivolity nearby. Beneath the falls there is a thickly wooded ravine and some ancient paintings adorning nearby rock faces beneath a permanent rainbow.

 

KUNDABWIKA FALLS
On the Kalungwishi River, 95kms from Mporokoso. Two small waterfalls, the main one being twenty five meters high and in the flood season , seventy meters wide. A revered shrine for local people. There is a traditional custodian appointed by the Chief who looks after the area. Locals believe that ignoring ritual and prayer at the falls brings about bad luck.

 

MUMBULUMA FALLS
Mumbuluma Falls, situated 33km from Mansa town, cascades down in two steps on the Mumbuluma River. The temple for the protective spirits, Makumba and his sister Ngosa, are situated some distance south of the Falls. The temple has a sacred fire which never goes out and is tended by the priests. According to legend, Makumba and Ngosa fell from the sky.

 

MUTUMUNA FALLS
Mutumuna is above the Chishimba Falls and it is believed the spirit of Mutumuna resides here. The High Priest of Mutumuna is Chitemenwe and makes regular offerings. Because of the sacred nature of the Falls no sexual intercourse, arrogance and quarrelsomeness is allowed in the vicinity of the Falls.

 

NTUMBACHUSHI FALLS
A series of water pools and rapids culminating in the main falls about 30m high on the Ng’ona River. This very picturesque waterfall was believed to be a sanctuary of spirits while the waters of the Ng’ona River are used for bathing chiefs before they are installed on the throne so as to cleanse them of bad luck and misfortune. Situated between Kazembe and Kawambwa in the Luapula Province. An ideal site for camping.

 

NYAMBWEZI FALLS
In the North-Western province, 204 kms south of the Solwezi – Mwinilunga rd on the Nyambwezu River is a 20 m high waterfall. There is a rock shelter close to the lip of the falls decorated with prehistoric engravings and evidence of late Stone Age occupation. It is possible to camp here.